Figs are one of the most rewarding fruit trees to grow in a home food forest or orchard. They are relatively easy to propagate, grow quickly, and can produce an impressive amount of delicious fruit once established. Unlike many fruit trees, figs don't require cross-pollination to produce fruit, making them particularly well suited to backyard growing.
Although figs are native to warmer regions of the Mediterranean and western Asia, they can be successfully grown here in Pennsylvania with a little extra attention to winter protection. With the right variety and a good planting location, you can enjoy fresh figs from your own backyard year after year.
Figs Ficus carica are deciduous fruit trees that thrive in warm summers and relatively mild winters. They are well suited to USDA growing zones 7–10, although some varieties can survive colder conditions with adequate winter protection.
Here in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania (Zone 7a), figs are a little more challenging than apples, pears, or other traditional fruit trees. Our winters can kill back much of the aboveground growth, particularly during especially cold years. Fortunately, figs are vigorous growers and can regrow from their roots even when the branches suffer significant winter damage.
One of the advantages of growing figs in colder climates is that many varieties produce their primary crop on new growth. This means that even if a tree dies back considerably over the winter, it can still produce a substantial crop of figs during the following growing season.
There are many different varieties of figs, each with its own characteristics. Some produce small, exceptionally sweet fruit, while others produce large figs with rich, complex flavors. They also differ in their ability to tolerate cold temperatures and ripen fruit during shorter growing seasons.
I grow the following varieties on my property:
C's Red produces fruit with a deep red flesh and a sweet berry flavor. The skin color is reddish-brown when the fig is fully ripe and will resist cracking during rainfall, unlike other fig varieties. Fruit size is considered large, about ¼ inch larger than a golf ball. A great fig for fresh eating.
Chicago Hardy is a popular choice for my area as it's well known for its cold hardiness. It produces small to medium-sized figs with dark purple skin and sweet, strawberry-red flesh. The rich, berry-like flavor makes these figs excellent for fresh eating, preserves, and homemade fig jam.
Brown Turkey is a productive, versatile fig variety that produces medium to large fruit with brownish-purple skin and pink to amber-colored flesh. Its mild sweetness and classic fig flavor make it a good choice for fresh eating, drying, and preserves.
Marseilles Black produces medium-sized, dark-skinned figs with reddish flesh and a sweet, rich flavor. The attractive fruit and traditional European heritage make it an interesting addition to a home fig collection.
Desert King produces large, green-skinned figs with sweet, strawberry-colored flesh. It is especially valued for its abundant early-summer crop, which develops on the previous year's growth. The sweet, fruity flavor makes it an excellent choice for enjoying fresh from the tree.
Campaniere is prized by fig growers in many different climates for its incredible cold hardiness, resistance to splitting and ability to produce figs that practically dry on the tree, and above all, its flavor. Campaniere is a French fig that has been known to reliably ripen main crop figs in cold pockets and higher elevation sites, as well as humid climates where fig quality is usually subpar.
LSU Purple produces medium-sized figs with glossy, reddish-purple to deep purple skin and sweet, light strawberry-colored flesh. The fruit has a mild, sugary flavor and is excellent for fresh eating, drying, and making preserves.
Red Lebanese Bekaa Valley produces dark purple figs with red jammy centers. It is very prolific and cold-hardy. IT doesn't need as much heat to ripen fruit, making it useful to extend the growing season.
Sangue Dolce produces dark purple figs with red jammy centers. The fruit is a little smaller, denser, and richer than other varieties.
White Madeira #1 is an excellent Adriatic fig that produces berry-flavored green figs with a bright red pulp. Originally discovered in Maryland, it doesn't split in the rain and ripens well when the weather is cold.
Celeste, also known as Sugar Fig, produces small to medium-sized figs with light brown to violet-bronze skin and sweet, pinkish-amber flesh. Its rich sweetness makes it excellent for fresh eating, drying, and preserves. The fruit's small, tightly closed eye also helps reduce problems with insects and spoilage.
Bensalem unk is a new tree to me, and so I have yet to see fruit. Apparently, it comes from a tree found in Bensalem, PA so it should be quite cold-hardy. I've heard it produces a lot of tasty figs but cannot verify that myself.
Izbat an Naj is an Egyptian fig variety known for its golden-green skin and golden to amber-colored flesh. The sweet, honey-like fruit is often described as having tropical notes of pineapple and banana, especially when fully ripe. It is an appealing choice for gardeners who enjoy experimenting with unusual fruit flavors.
Syrian Dark produces small to medium-sized, dark-skinned figs with a thick, meaty texture and a pronounced berry flavor. It tends to ripen relatively early compared with some other dark fig varieties, making it worth considering for gardeners who want flavorful fruit earlier in the season.
Lyndhurst White produces medium-sized green figs with pink flesh and a rich, sweet honey flavor. Originally found growing in Lyndhurst, New Jersey, it has become an interesting variety among fig enthusiasts. Its combination of light-colored skin and sweet, flavorful flesh makes it a distinctive addition to a home fig collection.
Ronde de Bordeaux is a productive French fig variety known for its small, round, dark purple to nearly black fruit. The reddish flesh has a rich, sweet berry flavor, and the variety is especially valued for its early-ripening main crop. It is a great option for gardeners who want flavorful figs earlier in the summer.
Keep in mind that a variety's performance can vary considerably depending on growing conditions. A variety that performs exceptionally well in a warmer climate may struggle to ripen its fruit in Pennsylvania. For northern gardeners, early ripening and the ability to produce fruit on new growth are particularly valuable characteristics.
Fig trees prefer full sun and warmth. Choose a location that receives at least 8 hours of direct sunlight each day. The more sunlight and warmth your tree receives, the better your chances of harvesting ripe fruit before the arrival of fall frost.
In colder climates, location becomes especially important. Planting against a south-facing wall, building, or other structure can provide additional warmth and protection from winter winds.
A few things to consider when choosing a planting location:
Sunlight: Full sun is best. Shady locations will generally result in slower growth and fewer ripe figs.
Protection: Avoid exposed locations where cold winter winds can damage the tree.
Drainage: Figs do not like sitting in waterlogged soil. Choose a location with good drainage.
Space: Fig trees can become surprisingly large. Depending on the variety and pruning, they can grow into substantial shrubs or small trees.
Root competition: Give your fig enough room to establish its root system without competing heavily with other large trees.
One thing worth considering in Pennsylvania is how you intend to protect your fig during the winter. A tree planted against a building or in a sheltered corner of your property will generally be easier to protect than one planted out in the middle of an open field.
Fig trees are adaptable and can grow in a variety of soil types, provided the soil drains reasonably well. They prefer moderately fertile soil with a pH around 6.0–6.5. Unlike some fruit trees, figs generally don't require particularly rich soil to produce fruit.
When planting, incorporate some finished compost into the surrounding soil if it is poor in organic matter. Avoid creating an overly rich planting pocket or adding large quantities of fertilizer directly into the planting hole. A layer of organic mulch around the base of the tree can help retain moisture, suppress weeds, and gradually improve soil quality. Wood chips, shredded leaves, straw, and compost all work well as mulch. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk to prevent excessive moisture from accumulating against the bark.
Fig trees are relatively drought-tolerant once established, but consistent moisture is important during their first few years of growth and throughout the fruiting season.
Newly planted fig trees should be watered regularly while their root systems become established. During particularly hot and dry weather, they may need supplemental watering several times a week. Established trees generally require less attention, but prolonged drought can cause fruit to drop prematurely or remain small.
A few general watering guidelines:
Water deeply rather than providing frequent, shallow watering.
Pay particular attention to watering during hot summer weather.
Maintain a layer of mulch to help retain soil moisture.
Avoid keeping the soil constantly saturated.
Reduce supplemental watering as the growing season winds down and the tree prepares for dormancy.
If you notice figs dropping before they ripen, drought stress can sometimes be a contributing factor.
One of the nice things about growing figs is that they generally don't require a tremendous amount of fertilizer. In fact, too much nitrogen can encourage excessive leafy growth at the expense of fruit production. If your tree is growing vigorously and producing plenty of fruit, additional fertilizer may not be necessary.
For younger trees that are still establishing themselves, a modest application of compost or a balanced organic fertilizer in the spring can help encourage healthy growth.
Avoid applying large amounts of nitrogen late in the growing season. Late-season growth may not have enough time to harden off before winter, making it more susceptible to cold damage. If your fig tree is growing vigorously but producing very little fruit, excessive nitrogen may be part of the problem.
Fig trees are relatively forgiving when it comes to pruning. Unlike many fruit trees, figs can produce fruit on the current season's growth, which makes them particularly adaptable to colder climates where winter dieback is common.
There are two general ways to grow fig trees:
Tree form: You can train your fig to grow with a central trunk and a relatively open canopy. This is a good option if you want a traditional-looking fruit tree.
Bush form: Allow multiple stems to grow from the base of the plant. This is particularly useful in Pennsylvania because the tree can regrow from the ground following winter damage.
For most northern gardeners, I recommend growing figs as multi-stemmed bushes. This makes winter protection easier and allows the plant to recover even if several branches are damaged.
Pruning can be done to remove dead, damaged, or crossing branches and to maintain a manageable size. Avoid excessive pruning simply for the sake of pruning. Some varieties produce an early breba crop on older wood, and removing that wood can eliminate that portion of the harvest.
In the spring, wait until you can see which branches have survived the winter before removing damaged wood. Sometimes branches that initially appear dead will produce new growth.
Winter protection is probably the most important consideration when growing figs in Pennsylvania.
Although some varieties are considerably more cold tolerant than others, most figs can suffer significant damage when temperatures fall into the teens. Even varieties marketed as cold hardy can experience substantial dieback during particularly harsh winters. Fortunately, fig trees are resilient and can often recover from substantial winter damage.
There are several ways to protect fig trees during the winter.
1. Mulching the Base
One of the easiest ways to protect a fig tree is to apply a thick layer of mulch around its base after the tree has gone dormant.
Use 6–12 inches of leaves, straw, or another insulating organic material around the base of the plant. This helps protect the roots and lower stems from extreme cold.
2. Wrapping the Tree
For smaller trees, you can tie the branches together and wrap the entire plant with burlap or another breathable insulating material. You can also build a simple protective enclosure around the tree and fill it loosely with straw. Avoid wrapping the tree tightly in plastic. Trapping moisture against the branches can encourage fungal problems and rot.
3. Growing in Containers
Figs can also be grown successfully in large containers. This allows you to move the tree into an unheated garage, basement, or other protected location for the winter.
Once the tree has gone dormant and dropped its leaves, move it somewhere cool where it can remain dormant until spring.
A dark, unheated location is ideal. Water occasionally throughout the winter, just enough to prevent the root ball from drying out completely.
4. Allowing the Tree to Die Back Naturally
Another option is to simply accept that some aboveground growth may die back during winter.
If the roots survive, many fig varieties will send up vigorous new shoots in the spring. Since the main crop develops on new growth, you can still have a productive tree even after a substantial winter dieback.
For more detailed instructions, see Penn State Extension's guide to winterizing your fig tree.
One of the biggest challenges for northern fig growers is getting the fruit to ripen before the first fall frost. Depending on the variety and growing conditions, figs generally ripen from late summer through fall.
Unlike many other fruits, figs do not continue ripening very well after being picked. It is important to allow them to fully ripen on the tree.
A ripe fig will generally have several characteristics:
The fruit will soften considerably.
The skin will often change color depending on the variety.
The neck of the fig will begin to droop downward.
The fruit will become noticeably sweeter and more fragrant.
Some varieties will develop small cracks in the skin.
A ripe fig should come away from the tree relatively easily. If you have to pull hard, it probably needs more time.
Figs are highly perishable once harvested, so plan to eat, refrigerate, dry, or preserve them relatively quickly.
Figs are easy to propagate from dormant hardwood cuttings taken in late fall or winter. Place the bottom of each cutting into a pot filled with a well-draining potting mix, leaving one or two nodes above the soil. Keep the soil lightly moist, not soggy, and protect the cuttings from freezing temperatures while they develop roots. Rooting hormone is optional and usually not necessary.
You can also store dormant cuttings in a sealed plastic bag with slightly moist paper towels in the refrigerator until you are ready to root them. I have even found great success leaving the figs in the plastic bag with moist paper towels in a semi-dark and warm part of the house. Top shelf of the pantry, for example. Within a few weeks, they should start to grow roots, at which point you can pot them up. Here's a video I made on rooting cuttings.
Once the cuttings have rooted and begun growing leaves, give them plenty of bright light and gradually acclimate them to outdoor conditions. Protect young plants from strong winds, harsh afternoon sun while acclimating, and freezing temperatures. Allow the trees to develop a healthy root system before planting them permanently in the ground. Rooted cuttings should not be planted outside until after the last frost of the season. That gives them a whole summer to build a strong root system to get them through their first winter.
Fig trees are generally relatively low-maintenance, but there are a few issues worth watching for.
Fig rust is a fungal disease that causes yellowish spots on leaves that eventually turn reddish brown. Infected leaves may drop prematurely.
Good air circulation, avoiding overhead watering, and removing infected leaf debris can help reduce problems.
Fig mosaic virus can cause yellow spotting, distorted leaves, and reduced fruit production. Symptoms can vary considerably.
There is no simple cure once a tree is infected. Starting with healthy propagation material is important.
Fruit Dropping Prematurely
There are several reasons figs may drop before ripening, including drought stress, excessive nitrogen, insufficient sunlight, and unsuitable growing conditions. Some varieties also struggle to ripen their fruit in cooler climates.
Birds and Other Wildlife
Birds, squirrels, and other animals may discover your figs before you do. If wildlife becomes a problem, consider using bird netting or harvesting fruit as soon as it ripens.